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Winter Sowing in December

Winters in southern New England can be quite cold and snowy from Thanksgiving until late April. The jet stream sometimes brings on a milder weather pattern, but also can provide fierce, deep cold with abundant snowfall. A freeze, mild thaw cycle will be normal as we slowly creep towards spring renewal.

Outdoor gardening during these months is normally confined to pruning. Sometime in February, plans for the spring garden will start to take shape. A few sketches of different garden areas will emerge with notions to put in new plantings. A fierce October storm blew down a black cherry tree in the backyard. All that remains is the stump so that is on the list of things to do next year.

Next year’s major goals center on creating a more pollinator friendly environment. About eleven years ago when I bought the property, the lawn was weaned off a fertilization program. It took a while, but now I have healthy, fat earthworms emerge wherever the earth is turned over. So many birds live here bringing the great pleasure of being able to hear their songs.

The plantings will include native shrubs, flowers and trees if I can find them. Nurseries sell what is easy, not always what is best for conservation. In the fall, I prepared two large beds for seeding and planting pollinator friendly perennials and annuals. It took a lot of hard work to clear out the none native weeds, lay down the compost, letting it decay and settle during the long winter months.

One mission this winter is to purchase a seed mix for the beds. The goal is to order the right blend for my area and store it in a cold space to at least get some of the freeze/thaw conditions they need to germinate. However, the notion of winter sowing has been  discovered in the last few months and I am fully into the experimental phase of this different way to plant native perennials.

It’s actually appealing in that material that is normally put in the waste stream is salvaged to create miniature greenhouses that allow the seed to experience freeze/thaw, but provide for germination in a controlled environment. So much of seeding and germinating is happenstance. When the conditions are right, the seeds will sprout. This winter sowing helps to provide this condition.

So, here is the pile of materials that will assist in seeding. The milk crates will hold four plastic one-gallon jugs containing soil and seed. The seeds came from different sources. Some from a local seed exchange. The common milkweed was field harvested in October. There is also aster and black-eyed Susan ready to sow.

Apparently, there are also optimum days to seed and a reference to this  helped establish those days. December 20 was mentioned to be one best day to plant among many so called ember days.

It took about two hours to produce this lot. Here they sit out in the snow. Another batch will be prepared and then it’s time. The snow/rain cycle has been active for weeks so additional moisture in the jug won’t be necessary for a while. The caps are off the jugs allowing the elements inside. There are drainage holes in each jug.

It felt odd to be handling soil and seeds at this time of year but in a few months, we’ll see what happens.

Perennial List:
Common, swamp and swan milkweed, clematis, white turtlehead, coneflower, lavender hyssop, cardinal flower, lupine, columbine, wild bergamot, ironweed, and yarrow.

 

 

 

 

Winter Sowing

Well, change can be a challenge at times. Ever the eager gardener, an article posted spoke to a different way to plant seeds for spring germination. Some seeds need cold, rain, snow, and solar/lunar cycles to initiate their growth. Instead of refrigerating and/or planting in the ground, hoping the seeds germinate, gardeners may plant them in traditional pots leaving them out in the elements. In their natural state, seeds will become seedlings when the moment is right. Unless some critter eats the seeds or they wash away. Also, gardeners do run the risk of plucking them as immature seedlings mistaking them for weeds. This method of potting and leaving out could reduce uncertainty somewhat.

So, I did it. I gathered the seeds, soil, and pots. Here they are set out behind the blueberry bush for the winter. To say there is doubt would be fair. We have had a mighty windy soaker storm push through for hours now. Did they survive this deluge? Are they laying low for months and months only to green up next May or June? Can this erstwhile gardener deal with the uncertainty and let nature be?

In the pots are Penstemon, cornflower and hyssop.

To be continued….

 

 

 

Native Pollinator Restoration Project ~ DIY

The pollinator habitat project is going forward in my garden. The gardening space in total is about 1/3 acre of mostly open land with sandy loam soil. An open field borders the south side of the property. The north border is tree-lined. There’s plenty of sunshine and the proximity to the Quaboag River means all kinds of birds and pollinators could pay a visit.

This area is overdue for some attention. Ten years ago,  there were two cherry trees that didn’t produce fruit planted here. One of them was a mass of twisted branches. They were planted too close to a Siberian Olive tree which does produce tiny champagne pink berries each fall. The cherry trees eventually came down and the roots were removed. Some fruiting trees are self-pollinating. My guess is those trees were not.

The space is overrun with nonflowering rose and creeping jenny.  The slope includes a large planting of forsythia. Last winter, I cleaned out and pruned about 2/3 of the bed and it came back well this spring. However, the forsythia may be colorful and an early bloomer, but adds zero value to pollinators.

The goal is to restore this large area to a pollinator-friendly habitat at a reasonable cost. Over the weekend, I raked out the debris of downed branches and old vegetation.

After clearing out and mowing down the living plant material, soot and ash from the nearby fire pit were spread around. The pile was getting large and needed to be disbursed.  This will add some nutrients to the soil. Then, I secured as much free cardboard as I could and started building the layer on which the new garden will be planted. I wanted to cover the cardboard with horse manure as I did in the other location. But, this is about 100 square feet and a little too much for me. I’d need someone to dump the load right on the spot for spreading. In the meantime, I started raking leaves into the space. The rains are returning this week, which will soak the area nicely and set up the decomposition.

The short term goal is to start to rehab the space by creating a barrier for the unwanted plantings. The long-term goal is to provide a stable, healthy soil base that is as invasive free as possible.  Over the winter, the cardboard will rot into the soil. The leaves will compress but decomposition will take much longer than one winter. It’s mostly a holding place for the fallen leaves to overwinter while I figure out how to add a layer of permeable mulch over the area. It would take probably two or three yards of soil and compost to cover the area.

What will be planted here? It’s not known yet, there are so many plants and shrubs to consider. The habitat is naturally a moist, shaded space. However, the drought of rain from May through September turned it into a dry shaded space. So, it will be fun reading over what is recommended and consider what to plant. So far, black willow, swamp azalea and Joe Pye weed are at the top of the list.

The next area to tackle will be the forsythia. While I can prune out the branches. How on earth do I remove the stumps?

A day in the life of an amateur gardener rambles on…..